“Ecuador is a country where you come to live in the moment, and that moment can last a lifetime.” Paul Theroux
Ecuador is on many peoples bucket lists. The Galapagos islands just seem to capture the imagination. In truth though it has always been a low priority for us. I’ve spent years looking at photos of the Galapagos and it has always felt fairly uninspiring. Giant tortoises, blue-footed boobies, a bunch of seals and some obligatory penguins located on some fairly uninspiring rocky islands! Spoiler alert: I’ve added to the collection in the galleries below. Whilst I exaggerate slightly – it’s never been a place that really grabbed me. Fair to say that expectations were modest, or more to the point – I just didn’t get it!
Guayaquil
Where we stayed: Hotel del Parque, Guayaquil
Really lovely colonial style hotel set within a wildlife park. The park itself was shut on the back of covid and it looked pretty tired as a result – but if anything that made it more interesting! Whilst you couldn’t get into the centre – walking around the edges was pretty awesome. Monkeys, birds and iguanas aplenty! Made it an interesting place to stroll around armed with a camera!
Guayaquil itself is interesting for an afternoon out. Hotel staff were very clear that it was not a place to wander aimlessly and were insistent that we took organised cabs – but it didn’t feel unsafe.
The highlight was without doubt the Parque Seminario which not only overlooks the rather beautiful cathedral – but is also home to hundreds of iguanas. Be prepared – they are bold and if you arm yourself with lettuce – you will be very popular!
Galapagos Islands
Where we stayed: Pikaia Lodge, Santa Cruz, Galapagos
Following a couple of days in Guayaquil we headed to the main event – the Galapagos!
The majority of travellers to the Galapagos stay on board boats and float between islands. We elected for a mainland base at Pikaia Lodge – which is located on a giant tortoise farm and offers amazing views of the surrounding landscape. Beautiful pool, great food and the resident giant tortoises make for interesting strolls through extensive grounds. We took a boat everyday to the islands – full on days – but far exceeded my admittedly modest expectations.
Despite my initial cynicism – I loved the Galapagos! I now get it! The amazing thing about the islands is the sheer abundance of wildlife – the islands are literally teeming with life! It’s everywhere. The islands have been well protected and as a result the wildlife is pretty bold and refreshingly unafraid of visitors. As a consequence you get to snorkel with penguins and baby seals! That said, it’s a good idea to keep a respectful eye out for the latter’s parents – they can be huge and move amazingly quickly in the water – you really don’t want to mess with an angry mum or dad!
The photos don’t really don’t do the experience full justice… you’ll have to go to find out for yourself!
Cloud Forest, Quito
Where we stayed: Mashpi Lodge
From the Galapagos we transferred to Mashpi Lodge in Ecuador’s cloud forest. Having watched a documentary about the hotel a few years back, it’s fair to say I was pretty excited about arriving at Mashpi. Jungle and ecolodge – happy days! It did not disappoint!
The lodge is set amid 3,200 acres of pristine, reclaimed forest boasting incredible biodiversity.
The Mashpi experience is all about guided walks – through jungle and rivers. It’s rugged and wild tropical jungle. The noise is incredible. Whilst people rave about Costa Rica – I would take the Ecuador jungle any day. The amount of wildlife is incredible! Toucans have eluded me everywhere I’ve travelled – but we saw plenty in Mashpi! The Dragonfly (cable car) takes you 1600 feet above the forest floor – above and through the canopy. It provides a great perspective!
The night walk is also pretty cool – different animals come out to play and there are no shortage of big spiders!
Despite the many colourful birds we saw in Ecuador – my claim to fame is owning perhaps the best photo in the world of the very rare and elusive Berlepsch’s Tinamou. Apparently a team had recently spent weeks in the jungle trying to find one – WITHOUT success! It just so happened that as we were hiking – one conveniently crossed our path. Our guide got very excited! Us – less so. Looked like a black pigeon. Entry from Wikipedia (source of all knowledge) suggests there have only been two sightings. So here you go – a third…
