“Indonesia: archipelago of enchantment, where cultures, religions, and landscapes converge, a mosaic of humanity blending harmoniously.” – Pramoedya Ananta Toer


Hanging Gardens of Bali, Ubud
A few days at the Hanging Gardens of Bali in Ubud’s lush tropical rainforest is a great way to unwind and relax into Indonesian culture. The grounds are extensive and beautifully kept, whilst the rooms, complete with plunge pools, feel well appointed and pretty damn cool. The central pools make for some dramatic photos.
Dalem Segara Madhu Jagadnatha Temple is a short walk away and feels very Indiana Jones!
The Tegalalang Rice Terraces are a short cab journey away and well worth a visit.
The hotel also has a small antique shop – who knew that I was missing a shaman calendar in my life!


Misool, Raja Ampat
We’ve been to some truly stunning places – but if there is a paradise on earth, it must be Raja Ampat. It is well worth the lengthy journey from Bali.
Misool, a remote island in Indonesia’s Raja Ampat archipelago, boasts pristine beaches, vibrant coral reefs, and lush jungles. A hidden gem in West Papua, Misool offers visitors unparalleled marine biodiversity and world-class diving Embraced by crystal-clear turquoise waters, this island paradise is truly captivating. Well worth travelling from the other side of the world to visit.


Misool was founded by Andrew Miners and Marit Miners in 2005. Upon discovering an abandoned shark-finning camp on the island, they decided to lease the area from the local community and create a conservation center and eco-resort. Their goal was to protect the marine ecosystem, promote sustainable tourism, and support local communities.
With the help of friends, family, and investors, they built the resort using sustainable materials and employing locals. Misool Eco Resort has since become a world-renowned diving destination, focusing on conservation and responsible tourism.
In 2010, they also established the Misool Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to safeguarding the region’s marine ecosystem and empowering local communities through education and conservation initiatives.


The resort is built around its own incredible reef – with turtles and nursing sharks in abundance a few feet from the water bungalows or beach. Be prepared to be spoiled – once you’ve snorkelled in the waters around Misool – everything else feels pale in comparison.
We are not divers – and there are some serious divers at Raja Ampat. There’s also some serious photography kit on display. Some of the equipment in the dive centre would set you back the price of a sports car. But for those of us with more modest budgets – the crystal waters make for some incredible shots with a £100 point and click.


We went out on snorkelling trips most days – which is a harder choice than you would imagine given the amazing house reef. We were fortunate enough to swim with some incredible manta rays!
Manta ray gill plates (also known as “Peng Yu Sai”) continue to be used in Chinese traditional medicine. However, there is no scientific evidence supporting the efficacy of manta ray gills for any medical purpose. The demand however, has contributed to the decline of manta ray populations. Mantas have long gestation periods, give birth to a mere one or two ‘pups’ and have relatively low reproductive rates. The decline of these incredible animals is a travesty – and something that Misool’s educational programmes are trying to redress.


Amongst the unique marine species found in the region are so called walking sharks – specifically the epaulette shark (Hemiscyllium ocellatum). These small, bottom-dwelling sharks use their pectoral and pelvic fins to “walk” or crawl across the seafloor, which allows them to navigate shallow reef environments more easily.
Given that the sharks are nocturnal hunters – the best chance of seeing them is at night. Snorkelling with a torch at night is exhilarating in itself – but even better when I came across one of these sharks!

Not the greatest picture – but I don’t care!
