Landing in Darwin, in the Northern Territory, or the Top End, as it’s known locally, I’m not quite sure what to expect. My knowledge of Australia is pretty much limited to what I’ve managed to glean from Crocodile Dundee and Aussie Gold Hunters. Whilst I’m excited at the prospect of visiting a new continent, I’m mentally prepared for an arid landscape full of flies, intense heat, and the greatest variety of venomous, poisonous, and generally obnoxious flora and fauna to be found anywhere on the planet. What an ignorant Pommie!
Darwin itself is very different to my mental image. We’d been pre-warned by the host of our Airbnb about potential social unrest in our Darwin suburb. Such was the intensity of the warning that we nearly reorganised this part of our trip. We had been advised that tensions were high amongst the aboriginal people – who despite having occupied Australia for 65,000 years, now represent a mere 3% of the population (by contrast – the Chinese make up 6%) and have been displaced from both their ancestral land and their largely nomadic way of life.
Despite the Australian government making significant efforts to redress the issue – it is a social problem that is not easy to resolve. A combination of western delights, such as sugar and alcohol, coupled with merited resentment over years of persecution makes for a heady mix.
It is a desperately sad situation, and opposite our accommodation we watch groups of aboriginal people sitting throughout the day, trying to exchange food vouchers for alcohol. Whilst everything remained orderly during our stay – it is very easy to see how tensions flare. Sure, more will follow on this as we journey through Oz!
On a more positive note, Darwin in the dry season is a really pleasant temperature – somewhere between 28 and 34 degrees and a nice dry heat. The beaches extend for miles and it has a very tropical feel to it, with cockatoos and an assortment of exotic looking wading birds chucked in for good measure. Contrary to expectation, people are very friendly, despite recognising us as Pommies! Everything is set up for an exemplary outdoor lifestyle and Friday evening sees families and friends arrive at the beach en masse – where street food and picnic benches make for a pretty cool place to winddown after work and watch the sunset. All pretty idyllic.
Next morning, equipped with a decent-size SUV we venture to Berry Springs. Our first stop in the NT sees us arrive at a very aesthetic looking fresh-water pool – which feels terribly tropical. The signs suggesting that park wardens have removed any salt-water crocodiles (affectionately referred to as ‘Salties’) is reassuring. That said, the fact that fresh-water crocodiles are considered acceptable swimming companions feels a tad odd! I guess in a country where pretty much everything can kill you – one has to pick one’s battles!
From Berry Springs we head to the Adelaide River to watch the famous jumping crocs. The river is home to thousands of wild salt-water crocodiles, with a claim that for every one you can see, there are ten that you can’t. Our boat captain knows the waters well and has his favourites amongst the potential man-eaters. He breaks us in gently with a rather pretty female, before finding two massive, prehistoric looking, dominant males. The crocs are made to work for their lunch. I say lunch, the pieces of steak on offer look more like an amuse-bouche for these monsters!
Crocodiles are able to lift three quarters of their body out of the water at an impressive speed. Several times our guide is caught out and loses his proffered steak as a result of a craftily launched stealth attack by one of the 3m plus reptiles. These are wild crocodiles, perfectly adapted apex predators, which have evolved over 250 million years. Definitely not a good idea to go for a swim in these parts and no one has to be told twice to keep their arms and legs in the boat at all times!
On the drive back it seems almost rude not to drop into the charmingly named, Humpty Doo Hotel. With several classic songs written in its honour (including the Humpty Doo Waltz and The Man from Humpty Doo) and boasting the world largest pair of water buffalo horns (quite an accolade in these parts) – the Humpty Doo self-professes to be a world-famous watering hole. Before I’ve even managed to order a Castlemaine XXXX, Jenn is accosted by what I take to be one of the fabled ‘Territory Characters’ – who offers to take her picture in front of the world famous horns. It’s a bar as a colourful as its name, with an eclectic mix of humanity, some of whom are sporting impressive mullets! It’s a great place to pass some time on the way back to base-camp.
Next day sees us up early doors for a scenic flight over Kakadu National Park. With a nice couple from Tasmania and a pilot named Matthew in tow, we squeeze ourselves into a small prop plane for the 90 minute flight. The National Park is some 19,816 square kilometres. Aside from a few cattle stations, an old uranium mine and some frontier settlements – it is barren, rugged, and home to numerous sacred aboriginal sites. A flight is about the only way to get an appreciation for the sheer scale of the park and one can only imagine the transformation in the wet season when the majority of it is flooded with water. The Northern Territory has two seasons – dry and wet. When it’s dry – it’s very dry. When it rains it’s pretty biblical!
Upon landing we take a wetland boat trip at Yellow Water Billabong. The wetlands are home to countless migratory birds, and of course a load of crocs, so I pass a contented hour and a half snapping away with my camera. Could easily have spent a full day on the water. Seemingly it’s a popular fishing spot and the government has encouraged the same by tagging certain fish with QR codes entitling the lucky angler to up to a $1m.
It’s a full on day out – but as we fly back – our pilot recommends a beach from which to watch the sunset. We decide to make the 15-minute drive and walk along the suggested beach – which incidentally stretches for miles. The sea looks pretty inviting. However, a combination of salt-water crocodiles and Box jellyfish means that only someone with a death-wish would venture in. Despite there being no shortage of local competition, the Box jellyfish holds the accolade for being the most poisonous creature on the planet! They are also transparent – which is a bit of a bugger if you are trying to avoid them in the water! We watch the sunset from the shore…
Next day we drive to Litchfield National Park. The national parks are really well set up and maintained. Easy to see why they are so revered by local tourists – great days out. That said, one of the pools in the park has been closed for two weeks until the day before our arrival. Despite best efforts a 2.5m crocodile had found its way into the pool and hidden its’ existence until it got a little peckish. At around lunchtime, some poor sod managed to get bitten when swimming by the waterfall.
I can only imagine the chaos that ensued at the sight of a crocodile, a pool full of blood and a bunch of unsuspecting swimmers. Seemingly the thing to do is to form a human circle, which is enough to discourage a crocodile from continuing to dine. The notion of forming a circle with a 2.5m croc in the water does not bear thinking about – but that is apparently what they did!
Despite some trepidation, we decide to take a dip! Not going to lie – I’ve definitely felt more relaxed in the past. That said, it is a park full of wildlife – not something created by Disney. This fact is reinforced upon looking up and seeing the trees teeming with fruit bats – thousands of them! A walk through the mangrove forests includes a sign announcing the presence of Golden Orb-weaving spiders – a mere pet in comparison with some of the outback beasties. They are however, everywhere – hand-size spiders hanging between palms! If you don’t like bugs – maybe give the forests a miss!
We take several hikes, visit multiple creeks and make a brief stop to look at the magnetic termite mounds (as exciting as it sounds). It is at that point that I make my biggest faux pas to date…
By way of context, for several weeks I’ve been practicing my Aussie accent – as you do. I’ve got half decent at it – they say practice makes perfect. As a consequence of my extensive practice, I inadvertently slip into my best Aussie impression when ordering ice cream. I can’t stop myself saying, ‘G’day mate – I’ll take a Cyclone.’ The full horror of what I was doing hit me mid-order, so with one ice-cream ordered in my newly acquired accent, I attempted to rectify the situation by requesting a Mint Magnum in the finest clipped English accent you are ever likely to hear.
Jenn was p***ing herself laughing. I was mortified. The kindly gent behind the counter clearly just thought I was suffering from some kind of episode and so delivered said items with a kindly smile! Definitely time for a sharp exit!
It’s fair to say we have been quite taken by the Top End and are reluctant to leave our Airbnb. We will be back in October though to visit Uluru. For now, it’s off to Kununurra in Western Australia. If Darwin is anything to go by – our time in Australia is going to be pretty epic.
TAFN.
Sounds an amazing place although with my fear of spiders not sure it’s one for me and not sure crocs are my favourite either. Carrie (Phillips) is heading for Darwin on her travels but I think you will be like ships in the night. Stay safe .with love x
Ha – small world huh! You’d be fine with the spiders – they’ve not come anywhere near us. You have to look for them – they are almost invisible despite their size! I did however have an enormous cricket visit me whilst I was asleep. Didn’t work out so well for it – must have crushed it in my sleep. Woke up next to it!
Great photos of the crocs. I’m not sure about the spiders either. A shame about the Aborigines. I suppose it is the same situation as the Red Indians of North America? That is an enormous National Park to us in this country. All the best.