Our journey starts in heavy rain. Thick cloud obscures the mountains and we have to make a dash to the car! No respite from the previous day. For three hours of the journey the car’s wipers are working on overdrive. However, as soon as we reach the lakes it’s as though someone has pressed a switch.
Our Airbnb is up a seriously steep hill. Vertical ascent, but worth every degree of elevation when we arrive. What a view! The house is perched high above Lake Hawea with a panoramic view over the town, lake and mountains. Barbecue beckons amid the lupins. Who wants to stay in a hotel when you can pay a fraction of the price and have all this space to yourself. En route to stock up with provisions, we visit the Instagram hotspot of Wanaka Lake. The tree in the water makes for a popular destination photo and people are queuing to have their picture taken perched on a rock in front of it. Not quite sure what all the fuss is about…
While our host is showing us round, she gives us some pointers about things to do in the local area. Jenn lets her know that we are planning to hike Roy’s Peak (how could we not given that it’s named in honour of Jenn’s maiden name). Our host literally looks us up and down and says, ‘well you’re young and fit enough.’ Come again… Young? Fit? She goes on to explain that she couldn’t walk properly for two days when she did the walk ten years ago. Brilliant! Well done Jenn…
The weather is pretty decent as we head off, although cloud obscures the peak. We’ve been told that even on a cloudy day, it’s worth doing, as you walk above the cloud. It is however, 8km and 4500 feet straight up! There is a look out point near the top, which is sufficient for many. For braver souls (or perhaps more masochistic souls) there is the summit a further 40 minutes on.
We don’t get off to the best of starts. Jenn decides that she’s going to set a new tardiness record by stopping every few yards to stretch, do up her boot laces, and generally go at a ‘slugs pace.’ My mentioning this fact to her, did not go down very well. Explaining my rationale for making said observation did nothing to improve the atmosphere. It did however have the desired effect and whilst I may not have been popular we did at least pick up our pace. 😉
The views are beautiful as we climb and very peaceful, despite being a popular track.
The lookout when we eventually reach it is every bit as stunning as we’d been told.
We decide to push on to the summit. Probably the steepest part of the climb, but we are rewarded with a subtly different perspective and an opportunity to sit and have lunch. By the time we get down it feels as though we have earned our dinner – 16km and a little over 5 hours.
Next day, having said a reluctant farewell to our Airbnb, we make our way to Lake Pukaki. We are cheating today and doing a heli-hike. In New Zealand, helicopters are a thing. If you can put ‘heli’ in front of it then it’s game on. Heli-hiking, heli-skiing, heli-cycling and so on. The weather could not be more perfect. Blue sky and Mount Cook resplendent in the background.
There are only three of us today plus a guide. Our fellow hiker is a lovely Taiwanese lady, Jessie. Given that Taiwan is the next stop on our trip, it feels like we were fated to spend time together.
We fly up to the top of Glentanner Farm, which has spectacular views over the mountains and lake. We then hike down via a research A-frame hut, where we break for much needed brownies and beer (it’s what all good walkers eat). Decent 4 hour hike, but nothing in comparison with Roy’s Peak yesterday. I have also learned my lesson, and do not comment on Jenn’s walking pace.
Our Airbnb for the next two nights is in the middle of nowhere, on a sheep farm in Ben Ohau. Beautiful hut with a real fire and views over the fields and mountains. No one for company except rabbits and sheep. Pretty idyllic and complete with log fire.
We spend a full day in Mount Cook National Park. The Hooker Valley trail is a popular one and given that the weather is still reasonably fair, there are a good number of walkers out and about. We end up walking it alongside a lovely lady from Surrey. Wind is incredible, making the suspension bridges interesting to say the least. Fun watching people’s faces as it sways in the wind!
Next day en route to Wanaka via the Lindis Pass, we stop along the river to admire yet more lupins. They are classified as an invasive species and destined to be eradicated by 2050. At one point we saw folk from the environmental agency spraying them with weed killer. Beautiful, but not welcome in NZ given the impact they have on local flora and fauna.
Our next stop is at a hotel. The rather charming Mahu Whenua. Plan is to do not a lot for the next two days. The views here are stunning and a great spot to relax. Doesn’t seem much need to tear about when one can sit with a glass of wine and just admire the 136,000 acres of protected land.
Of course, we can’t sit still for long, so decide to take out e-bikes. Never ridden one before. Essentially, it’s a standard bike, but with battery-powered assistance. The various settings determine how much help one receives (although, there is no option not to peddle)! We are warned about the steepness of the track (recurring theme) and that the battery needs to be managed to ensure there is enough juice for the climbs on the way home. Jenn takes this advice to heart rather more than she might. As a consequence she engages the motor relatively sparingly. The result is that at the half-way point she abandons her bike and declares that she’s knackered and hates cycling!
The return journey is far more to Jenn’s liking, with her making better use of the well-rested battery. She even appears a little disappointed that it’s all over when we arrive home. In fairness, the return journey did seem to fly by!
We are off to central Otago next. But before I signoff on this post, feels important to highlight a major milestone in our travels. We have reached the halfway point. We are six months in, with six months to go. I can’t quite believe that so much time has passed. When I look back it feels like we’ve covered a lot of ground and done an amazing amount. But six months? It’s true, time does fly when you’re having fun!
NB: As acknowledged at the outset of the trip, I know that many of you were concerned about what would happen to my hair on our journey. You will be pleased to know that I still have half of my VO5 styling wax. I attribute this to the fact that it has been so windy in most places that attempting to tame my hair has felt redundant, and to the fact that it has evolved into a more travel-friendly cut (style feels too strong a descriptor).
TAFN. Cheers!
I’m liking New Zealand 🇳🇿 Looks spectacular
I was surprised to see some British birds. I didn’t realise that goldfinches were so widespread. I am learning a lot.