A mere three and a half hour flight takes us from the balmy temperatures of the Kimberley to the wintery weather of Perth (although winter in Perth feels like spring in the UK). Landing at the runway we could be forgiven for thinking that we’ve landed at Heathrow. Jackets are definitely required to address the falling rain, and low temperatures – the likes of which we have not experienced for 6 weeks. Not sure where else in the world one can traverse seasons in the way that one can in Australia!
By way of explanation, this part of our trip has really been organised around our next major location – Ningaloo Reef. Our visit to Ningaloo has been aligned to two significant forces of nature. The first is the annual migration of the Whales sharks. These majestic animals frequent the waters at this particular time of year. The second, is the arrival of the Miles family! Laura is one of Jenn’s oldest friends, happens to live three doors down from us in the UK, and also by complete chance happened to be planning a trip to this part of Australia at the same time as us. As such, we plan to spend 3 days with Laura, Al, Eva, Lola and Ruby in Ningaloo in just over a weeks time. So we are navigating through Perth in July by happy necessity.
The Miles’s also happen to be in Perth when we arrive, staying with family, thus dinner is planned for the following evening.
Although we don’t see a great deal of the city – what we do see is pretty cool. For some reason, it reminds us of Boston. Something about the architecture, space, size, and general vibe of the place. Even in the winter, we like it immediately.
We are staying at an Airbnb, which means we get to do about 6 weeks’ worth of washing! My white socks have gradually become an interesting shade of grey and I suspect that they have yet to invent a washing cycle that will return them to their former glory!
Washing aside, we spend the day mulling around the city and I even find time to get a hair cut in. I explain that I have a small tub of VO5 wax that I am hoping to make last for 12 months. The hairdresser suggests a mullet – I’m not convinced. 😉
Having avoided a buzz cut, it’s time to meet Laura and Al for dinner. After nearly 60 days travelling, we are super excited at the prospect of meeting up with our friends from Blighty. Great to catch up after what feels like an age for Jenn and I, but back in the real world, has only been a few weeks. Lovely evening and a reminder of why, when the time comes, going home will not be so bad!
Over the course of dinner, they tell us that they are planning a trip to Fremantle to visit an aboriginal art gallery. Sounds like a great idea – so we shamelessly decide to follow suit.
Back at home, Jenn’s family have a board game called Ocean Trader. I think the production run was probably in the single digits, given that I’ve never met anyone else who has heard of it. But it is beloved of the Roy family. The game entails buying and selling cargos at different ports around the world. One of the most lucrative, distant, and hazardous locations being Fremantle. Thus, the idea of visiting the fabled port holds a certain romantic appeal.
Next morning, we head off – obviously wanting to get there ahead of the Miles family clan in order to secure the decent artwork before they arrive! I jest of course…
Fremantle is pretty cool. Very arty. Nice second hand-book shops, galleries and the type of cool eateries that would not look out of place in Borough Market. Again, architecture is interesting. We find the gallery, which is pretty sizeable, and stroll around with no real notion of what we are looking at. One particular painting is by renowned artist, Rusty Peters, with an asking price of $45k. Definitely not for us. There is however, some very interesting more modestly priced art on display, and lots of it.
Aboriginal art typically tells a story, or part of a story. I’m led to believe that some of it is coded, so that it can only be translated by those in the know. The dots, that I always assumed were for decorative purposes, actually have hidden meaning and in some instances are deliberately intended to obscure.
After a good rummage around we find several pieces entitled, Bush Medicine Leaves. Abstract is probably the best way to describe them. You wouldn’t pick them as being of aboriginal origin, but they appeal to us. When seen from certain angles they almost appear to be three dimensional. They are by a third generation artist from Boundary Bore, a lady called, Roseane Morton Petyarre. We decide that we like three of them. So having asked the gallery owner to put them to one side, we head for lunch to discuss the potential unbudgeted purchases.
Well fed, we meet up with the Miles’s en masse – their numbers have increased with the addition of Al’s parents. We make quite the ensemble as we descend on the gallery again. 30 minutes later, we watch as Laura and Al buy a large piece for their front room, and decide that medicine leaf aboriginal art is the thing that has been missing from our lives!
I promised Al that I wouldn’t mention that the purchase of their painting will probably necessitate the mass redecoration of their front room. Don’t worry Al – sure Laura won’t read this. 😉
That evening Al and I make an impromptu visit to the cinema to watch, Oppenheimer. What a film! Amazingly the venue is named, ‘Reading Cinema!’ I’ve travelled half-way around the world to go to Reading cinema with a guy who lives down the road from me. Ironic huh! Jenn meantime has spent the evening with the rest of the family and discovered that Eva, their oldest daughter, is now officially taller than her.
Next day we head to Margaret River. A three-hour drive to a place that my Aussie hairdresser described as her favourite part of Australia. This is serious wine country – famous for its vineyards, food, and beaches.
Our Airbnb is lovely – with a view overlooking the Indian Ocean. A fire in the front room is a nice touch and makes for a suitably cosy atmosphere.
Eagles Bay, a short walk from our accommodation, is a very pretty beach. As ever, there is barely a soul on it. We are fortunate that the weather is kind, and the light in the late afternoon is pretty stunning. It feels remote and unspoilt. Not dissimilar to Cornwall. The obligatory signs warn of rip currents – but no salt-water crocodiles. The bushes twitch with green parakeets (although never when I have my camera out) and serve as a reminder that this is not Padstow. That evening we have the first of several very good meals in Margaret River washed down with some pretty decent plonk.
Next day we make the short trip to Yallingup. Again, we are very lucky with the weather, and manage to get in a very good walk without the heavens opening. Decent surf for anyone brave enough to go in – although, not to be out done by our previous beach, this one suggests that if the rip tides don’t get you, the sharks might!
The following day, takes us to Redgate Beach and the aptly named Mammoth Cave. The latter is pretty impressive having yielded a host of prehistoric mega-fauna.
Lunchtime finds us at the Voyager Estate for a wine tasting. Beautiful vineyard, good wines, and food to match. Significantly better value than the equivalent in the UK. Despite the setting, it’s very relaxed. My trainers and increasingly well-worn jeans are not too heavily frowned upon.
The following day we are due back in Perth ahead of an early morning flight to Learmonth. Inspired by Joey’s comments on my last blog – we decide to visit Rottnest Island. I’d never heard of a Quokka before – but having looked them up on the internet, I couldn’t very well leave without trying to find one. By repute they are the happiest creature on the planet. Seemingly the tourist board are trying to promote Quokka selfies. I can see why.
A 30-minute ferry ride from Fremantle results in us landing at the main terminal on Rottnest, with no discernible plan other than to find Quokkas. We have two hours to find and befriend said animal. I’d actually done a modicum of research in advance about where to find them. Pans out I needn’t have bothered – they are pretty much everywhere.
Endemic to Australia, Quokkas are a species of macropod, with a ridiculously charming, smiley disposition. We spend a very enjoyable hour or so taking pictures of the naturally inquisitive marsupials. Jenn is less impressed – although it doesn’t stop her taking a selfie.
We manage to exit the return ferry at the wrong terminal and so face a two-and-a-half-hour walk back to the car. Thank God for Uber! It’s worrying to think that we are trying to navigate the globe…
With that, it’s an airport hotel, a 3.15am wakeup call and a flight to Ningaloo.
Whale sharks beckon! Wish us luck – Jenn will be inconsolable if we don’t see them!
🤣 thanks Dave
Lovely little Quokkas, but not so sure about the crocs!
That looks like my kind of food.
Sorry I have not replied. My PC seemed to have lost your contact. Just now I managed it by luck, so lots of catching up to do.