Rarotonga – Cook Islands

Funny how time flies when you’re having fun! As I write we are officially 4 months into our trip. When we were about to leave the UK, it felt like we were going to be away for an immense amount of time. The first few weeks did nothing to disabuse us of that illusion. Time seems to have gradually picked up pace ever since.

This part of our trip has literally flown by. 38 days in the South Pacific have gone by in a blink. In part, I attribute it to the fact we’ve crammed a lot in. Sensory overload.  

Our plan in Rarotonga, on the Cook Islands, was always to chill out, relax and plan the second half of our trip.

As it pans out the weather has made that decision look inspired. The cloud has barely lifted for a week, although the photos may suggest otherwise.

Rarotonga is less commercial than either Fiji or French Polynesia and feels very relaxed. The Cook Islands. although self-governing, has a free association with New Zealand, and as a result everyone speaks English, making it a very easy place to spend time. When the sun does make an appearance it’s also pretty stunning.

There are chickens running around everywhere, making alarm clocks somewhat redundant. Could have throttled our resident roosters who seemed to think that 4am is a good time to rise.

The island is 67 km squared and boasts 75% of the Cook Island’s total population (c. 17,000 people). The island is volcanic and dominated by rainforest in the interior. Like many of the islands we have visited, the inner sanctum of the island is largely impenetrable.

One of the things about the pacific islands that I find curious is the approach to cemeteries. Rather than the large communal burial grounds favoured in the UK, for the large part, people are buried on plots on their family land, a short distance from the house. Shows you how infrequently the land changes hands. Not sure how I feel about the tradition though.

Island living is relaxed and simple. If ever there was a perfect illustration, it is the Rorotonga bus system. Commuters simply have to choose between clockwise and anti-clockwise. The clockwise bus leaves on the hour, whilst the anticlockwise bus leaves at half past. To navigate the entire island takes about an hour. It’s a perfect system!

We decide that fishing is a good all-weather sport and so sign up to go game fishing beyond the lagoon. It’s not uncommon to catch tuna, marlin and sail fish.

However, despite Jenn’s best efforts (it really is impressive how Jenn throws herself tirelessly into the activity)…

…after four hours, and despite dragging five lines through the water we draw a complete blank!

Actually not overly disappointed. Nice boat trip, see a whale breaching close by, and after a month of enjoying the water, it feels appropriate to be taking nothing from it but fond memories.

After Jenn’s exertions – feels only appropriate to revive spirits with a frozen margarita.

At base camp, it’s been a busy week of planning. Reminds me how much work Jenn has put into making this all happen. Exciting though – this week we’ve planned two days on a junk on Bai Tu Long bay in Vietnam, a week in a snow leopard lodge in northern India, and refined the itinerary for a self-drive safari in Zimbabwe and Botswana. Time well spent!

With that it’s time to bid the islands of the south pacific farewell. We fly back to Australia tomorrow, time travelling as we cross the International Date Line, losing a day this time.  Sydney and the Blue Mountains beckon.