Our Airbnb is on the shores of Lake Rotorua, a nice spot with a lawn that runs right down to the water’s edge. We are welcomed by the owner’s over enthusiastic cockapoodle who, in its excitement, accidentally follows us into our garden – a place that it is clearly not allowed. Love the look on its face when it gets found out and slinks back with its tail between its legs, a picture of contrition!
The following morning, we head to Waimangu Volcanic Valley. It’s a cloudy day that threatens rain from the moment we leave the room, providing quite a fitting atmosphere for this particular spot. Steam rises from vents in a range of weird and wonderful places, with thermal springs and lakes, interspersed liberally across the park. It would make a pretty convincing backdrop for the next Jurassic Park film.
After a decent hike to the harbour, a small boat takes us around Lake Rotomahana. The area was subject to a massive earthquake in 1886, claiming over 100 lives. In its prime, it boasted huge terraces. Heydays notwithstanding, the geysers and volcanic backdrop make for an enjoyable trip.
We take an uphill path back to the car, adding to the considerable number of steps that we’ve already put in today. Not quite sure how we are managing to do so much hill walking without gaining any degree of fitness! 😉
Surprising how much life there is in the area, with the heat and minerality acting as a draw for birds. We come across a pond which is inhabited by the loudest frogs I’ve ever heard. Helps to explain something we were told in Hobbiton a few days back. Apparently, filming of the Hobbit was delayed by a month owing to the fact that the frogs were so loud it made hearing the actors impossible. Attempts to remove said frogs failed, and hence the multi-million dollar cast were stood down until nature took its course. I now understand why!
When we get home, there’s no rest for the wicked. We have time for a cup of tea and a bite to eat before heading back out for an evening tour. Glow worm tours are popular in this area, although most take place in caves. We’ve opted for a night-time trek in a native forest. It’s pissing it down with rain as we head off. Can’t help wondering if the glow worms will have more sense than us, and stay indoors!
Our guide is an interesting character. He’s passionate about two things, the ecosystem he’s about to share, and torches! He’s seemingly spent a good deal of time engaging in trial and error experiments to find the perfect accompaniment for his nocturnal tours. The consequence is that we are handed a red light and a standard white light each. Apparently, the red light causes the animals far less distress and makes for better encounters.
We were glad to hear that he had sufficient self-awareness to realise that green lights made him look like a rather convincing Buffalo Bill and were perhaps not the best advert for his tour!
Along with 6 others we head into the pitch black forest.
Our guide talks almost nonstop in his quest to impart knowledge. Interested to learn how slowly some of the local trees grow, some with lifespans exceeding 2,000 years.
The silver fern motif, made famous by the All Blacks amongst others, is one of New Zealand’s most enduring symbols. However, if you wander around the average wood you are unlikely to see one, as they are only glow silver when seen from below. As the specimens below demonstrate, they are pretty impressive!
The glow worms themselves are very cool. Far from being discouraged by the weather, glow worms seemingly love the humidity and the insect activity prompted by rain. When we turn our lights out at a particular overhang, it is a magical sight. Our guide had promised us a galaxy of glow worms, and his description was pretty much spot on! Bright green dots glow everywhere, creating the illusion of looking at a sea of stars through the foliage. Unlike the fireflies we had seen in Borneo, glow worms are static and far smaller. There are however billions of them!
Glow worms weave tiny silken threads and illuminate their rear ends to attract insects. Neat trick. Although photos will never do the sight justice, the photos below, taken by our guide, are better than I could manage. The closeups of the silk and thread look like little fairy grottos.
The following day we head to Turangi. We stop at the thermal springs in the centre of Rotorua. Despite the rain, it’s worth seeing. Sulphur smell aside, it’s a great thing to have on your doorstep.
The weather, however, is a tad depressing. The primary reason for visiting Turangi, is to do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. An 8 hour hike through some incredible landscapes peaking at at a little over 6000 feet. However, the weather on the best of days is highly changeable and conditions can be dangerous at the summit. Hence, the walk is often closed. Fingers crossed that the weather lifts whilst we’re here.
Confession: Seriously question whether we are actually fit enough to do this walk. Seems to be pretty tough by all accounts! Maybe the weather will save us from ourselves!
Determined to make the most of our time in the area we stop at Huka Falls, an 11-metre waterfall, before donning full-on waterproofs and heading out for a 12 km walk along the river Tongariro river, crossing two suspension bridges en route. We are drenched by the time we get home and grateful to have a real fire!
The following day is a washout, with weather warnings on the crossing (which is closed). Jenn studies the radar maps and discerns that the best of a pretty wet day is going to be at around 13.00. We head out and visit Gollum’s Pool (another Tolkien fan must-see), before heading into the park to see what the weather is doing. We get a tiny bit of luck, with the cloud lifting slightly, enabling us to at least see the outline of our Mount Doom (or Mount Ruapehu as it’s known outside of the Tolkien franchise). Within minutes however, the cloud has lowered, and the volcano has miraculously disappeared. The forecast for the next few days doesn’t inspire confidence but there is always hope!
We wake next day to find that that crossing is open – but with low cloud cover and rain forecast, it seems a pretty thankless journey. The cloud cover would reduce the visibility to almost zero, making it a very tough hike for not a lot! Latest: At the time of writing Jenn has just seen photos from those who did brave the walk today – a blanket of cloud. Good decision on our part to give it a miss.
We decide instead to do the nearly 20km hike to the Upper and Lower Tama Lakes via the Taranaki Falls. It’s dry as we head out and we are provided tantalising glimpses of what the scenery might be like on a clear day. As it is, the landscape is still pretty stunning.
Jenn’s grandmother always used to look at us with bemusement when we’d been anywhere on holiday – convinced that Scotland was every bit as good as whichever far flung place we’d just returned from. In this instance, she almost has a point. The landscape is not dissimilar to Glencoe and the weather is almost identical. However, the mountainous backdrop and would-be volcano give it the edge over the Highlands.
The lower of the two lakes is visible when we eventually arrive – albeit, it’s a moody scene. However, at the 4,725 feet peak, the upper lake is cloaked in cloud. It is also raining pretty steadily when we arrive. We eat our sandwiches in the pouring rain whilst being buffeted by the wind (which the forecasts suggest are raging at around 50 kms-an-hour). We’ve had some pretty decent meals on this trip so far, but this soggy delight is unlikely to be counted amongst the highlights! 😉
In total it’s a five hour hike and we rotate through at least three seasons – never quite making summer! Beautiful walk and very glad we decided to extend by a night in order to fit it in. Originally we were supposed to be making our way to Napier, but decided to forego a night in the vineyard in the hope of better weather for a walk. Good decision.
Next day, before heading to Napier we make a one hour detour to see if the cloud is any better. Alas, close but no cigar! We were clearly not meant to see Mount Doom! It’s not the worst place to sit and admire from the car though…
A fascinating place. Interesting thermal springs and the dark forest? I wwould love to see glow worms. My Mum said that they were around when she was a girl…. born 1923. Her Dad used to put them on his hat when walking in the dark.