Daintree

Our home for the next five days is an Airbnb in Mossman, on the edge of the Daintree Rainforest, about 90-minutes from Cairns.

The Daintree Rainforest is one of the largest in Australia, and part of the Wet Tropics of Queensland. Renowned as one of the oldest forests in the world at c. 180 million years, it feels pretty prehistoric, and boasts the legendary Cassowary amongst its residents. The latter is a seriously impressive bird, at over 1.5m tall, and weighing in at over 130lbs. Not to be outdone by Australia’s other lethal inhabitants, the Cassowary boasts a dagger-like claw that can be 5 inches long. It’s rare, but death by Cassowary has been recorded!

Our Airbnb is on a small organic fruit farm, with the South Mossman River running through the back of the property. The land is literally carved out of the forest and feels very wild. Our host recommends bathing in the river, after feeding the resident fish of course! We decide to take that under advisement.

As ever with the rainforest, everything feels moist, exacerbated by the recent rains. The thin walls and shutters in our Airbnb make it feel, pleasingly, as though one is living in the forest. A combination of the river, the occasional downpour and a host of frogs, birds and assorted beasties make for an almost constant cacophony of sound.

The most recognisable and noisy of our neighbours is the Laughing Kookaburra – its’ distinctive call marking the start and end of each day.  Not great if you want a lie in!

We explore Mossman Gorge, an assortment of tracks on raised platforms that wind through the forests. As ever with the rainforest it is very dense, making wildlife spotting somewhat challenging. However, this isn’t our first rodeo and we’ve learned to enjoy forest walks for what they are. Seeing wildlife is a bonus. As it pans out, we spot a Eastern Osprey on the river. The trees are amazing, and it feels like something out of Jurassic Park.

Next day our host shows us around his orchard and encourages us to try an assortment of seasonal fruit. Most of it we have had before – although we are introduced to two new delicacies…

The first is, a yellow fruit called a Canistel. Never tried it before, never want to again! It may be good for you, but it is a taste and texture that certainly does not agree with my palate unfortunately! Jenn concurs!

The second is a little more off-the-wall (literally and figuratively). We are encouraged to try the Green Tree Ants. With much amusement, our guide directs us to grab an ant and then bite into the bulbous rear end of the insect. I’ll give most things a go…  

Not sure what I was expecting, but it wasn’t the taste sensation I was met with. Pans out they are like highly concentrated citrus. Who knew? Transpires that certain Michelin chefs have started using them in their desserts. I can well imagine why. Nature never ceases to amaze!

Speaking of nature, that evening, I decide to go for a night-time stroll, having borrowed a torch from the Airbnb owners. I’ve been told that there are python in the forest, and so I’m keen to go and have a look.

There is something a little primordial about walking through a tropical forest in the pitch black armed with a torch! The forest noises become exaggerated in one’s mind, particularly when one’s vision is limited to the constraints of a torch beam. Imagination plays tricks, particularly given that every vine looks like a snake, and there are a healthy number of decent size spiders around. However, despite my best efforts, I don’t find any snakes, and have to suffice with an assortment of bats, creepie crawlies and an unidentified rabbit size creature.

Having survived my night safari, the following day we visit Cape Tribulation, a remote headland within Daintree. A couple of decent walks through the wetlands, followed by a stroll on yet another expansive beach makes for a decent day out. Despite the signs, none of the famed Cassowaries make an appearance!

Upon our return, and inspired by the fact that we have been given some organic eggs we decide to make pancakes. Of course, we’ve managed to forget to buy flour. So, we have to make a second trip to the supermarket to remedy said default.

With that problem solved, we then realise that we have also forgotten to buy butter…

A third trip to the supermarket for one meal feels a tad overzealous – so instead we improvise and use vegetable oil. The result is interesting… In place of a pancake we find ourselves with what we affectionately refer to as pancake bites. They look horrendous – but are in fact quite tasty (honest)!

When we booked our trip we were torn between our Airbnb and a riverside lodge, Silkyoaks. Out of curiosity and given our culinary debacles (there was also an incident with quesadillas which I won’t recount here), we visit for lunch and a poke around. It’s a very nice place, lunch is great, but on balance we decide we are very happy with the choice we made.   

On our final day I decide that the river has to be braved. Something about the fact that I’m sharing the experience with resident fish, turtles, and eels (not seen but known to be lurking) makes this more of a personal challenge than anything else. Nonetheless it is refreshing and for reasons I can’t quite explain, I’m glad I ventured in!

With that, an immersive few days in the rainforest draw to a close and it’s back to the airport. This time a short flight to Proserpine to take in the Whitsundays. The flight treats us to an aerial view of the Great Barrier Reef – one of the best views from a window seat that I can remember!