Komodo Islands

Originally this was one of the parts of our trips that I was most looking forward to. Four days of sailing around the Komodo Islands in a traditional Indonesian boat, known as a Phinisi – sounded idyllic. Komodo dragons have been on my list for a while. Again, I blame Sir David Attenborough! However, in our last resort we had seen a Phinisi moored on our jetty and so we got an opportunity to see what the reality was like first-hand. Undeniably beautiful, hand crafted – but also, undeniably small.

This was a part of the trip where we’d decided to compromise. A private tour is very expensive. Plus, apparently I’d suggested during the planning stage that it would be nice to do some parts of our trip with other people. In fairness, I have no recollection of that – but it does sound like the type of stupid thing I would say.

So on the eve of our trip we went to bed wondering what it was going to be like sharing the next 4 days with 12 complete strangers plus crew on a floating caravan. Our somewhat mixed emotions were not helped by the fact that I had developed a mild(ish) case of food poisoning!

The next day we were collected from the hotel on time and met our guide for the next four days at the dock. Really lovely chap called Gervas. We were whisked away by tender to our boat, the Samara I. Immediate relief on seeing the configuration. Very different to that which we had seen previously and as we were shown to our cabin we began to immediately relax into life on the sea. The room was comfortable, air conditioned and importantly for me (given revelation above) equipped with an en-suite. So now the only question was who would be joining us.

Over the next half an hour our shipmates arrived. Oh my God – they were horrendous! The worst sorts of people imaginable…

I jest. They were all lovely. Couple from Texas, couple from Northern Poland, a family of four from California and two photographers from the tour company. Still not entirely sure if that was a regular occurrence – but either way it was nice to have professional photographers to help capture some memories (haven’t had them yet – so these efforts are my own).

The itinerary was fairly full on. Day 1 we made our way to Kelor Island, having an excellent lunch along the way. Kelor island is surrounded by crystal clear turquoise waters. As with all such places, impossible to describe and infuriatingly difficult to capture on camera. The hike itself was modest and the view well worth the short climb. Video of Jenn showboating below (pun intended).

Travelling is all about surprises – the good and the bad. The first night onboard certainly fell into the former category. We moored up and waited for darkness to set in and for the July Supermoon to rise. As it did, huge bats started to appear from the mangroves. Initially they came out in dribs and drabs – but gradually the numbers increased and we watched as hundreds of giant bats, called Flying Foxes, made their way off the island. These are substantial creatures with wingspans that can measure up to 1.5 meters. It was a very cool thing to witness and not something we were expecting. Pictures don’t do it justice – so you’ll have to take my word for it!

Over dinner, which was excellent (amazing what our chef, Carlos, could knock up in a tiny galley kitchen) – our guide went through the plan for the following day. Another early start – this time, a 5am hike to view point on Padar Island.

The following morning it became clear why they hike early. Even at that time of day, combination of steep incline and humidity saw me return to my sweaty mess persona. So much for taking elegant photos at the top! The view is worth dissolving into a sweaty mess for – stunning! That said, it is far from an intimate shared moment. The Komodo islands are busy – lots of boats and all with similar agendas. Not really an issue, but it does mean that you are constantly jostling for position.

From there we made a snorkelling stop on the way to Komodo Island – the thing I was most looking forward to.

Now in my head, I pictured a lush green tropical island filled with monstrous lizards which could be spied via hiking paths that carved their way through the island. Two out of three were correct. The island is lush and home to c. 5-6,000 dragons that can grow up to 10 feet in length. Carniverous, Komodos are capable of bringing down adult water buffalo. They are ambush predators with poisonous bites. They are not venomous – but the bacteria from their jaws is enough to slowly poison prey (including human beings). Once they’ve bitten a victim they track them until they die from bacterial infection – it can take weeks. Nice!

However, disappointingly, the island itself is a bit of a farce. It was far from the wonderous hike I had imagined. Local guides walk tourists around a short loop which covers less than 0.1% of the island. We are also told that because it’s mating seasons we are unlikely to see any dragons – which retreat into the interior to find mates and fight. That said, within a few meters we come across a dragon – surrounded by tourists who refuse to stay the requisite distance away. As you watch some of these idiots – you do find yourself hoping that the dragon will lunge at one of them. Nothing nasty – just a decent scare. Sadly that doesn’t happen and so we have to tolerate stupidity!

We quickly decide that the whole thing feels like a disorganised circus. Disappointing. However, over the next half an hour or so we see two baby dragons and another three adults. Although there are still plenty of morons around to take the edge off the experience – the sightings become somewhat more intimate and are were left with a sense that we’d seen genuinely wild animals. When they yawn – you get some notion of why their bites are quite so rancid!

In summary, really glad that I’ve seen Komodo dragons – but the experience was not quite as I’d imagined.

If Komodo was somewhat underwhelming – the following morning’s trip to Taka Makassar was anything but. A 45 minute snorkel along a crystal clear and pristine reef took us to a sandbar in the middle of nowhere. A small castaway style shack and our travelling companions were the only features – amongst the most amazingly azure waters I’ve ever seen. Instagram paradise for some – just a genuinely beautiful spot for us. The type of place that as you soon as you leave, you feel that you must have dreamt. Again, pictures don’t do it justice – but the combination of the incredible snorkelling and the sandbar itself I think probably make it into my Top 10 travelling experiences (still debating).

The rest of our time on Samara I was spent island hopping, snorkelling and eating! We’ve been spoilt previously – Raja Ampat is widely regarded as one of the best places to snorkel in the world and most places we’ve been to since have paled by comparison. The Komodo Islands however, come pretty close. Had a number of special encounters with sea turtles over the three days and was mesmerised as ever by the sheer variety and number of reef fish. Again, their are sadly some real idiots around. Despite being told otherwise (presumably), people were seen standing on the coral and pulling themselves along as they try and take underwater photos. Tourism is a mixed blessing. On the one hand it brings in plenty of cash and helps protect the reef from dynamite fishermen etc. On the other hand, irresponsible tourism will see the reefs destroyed incredibly quickly. It’s sad to watch. Hopefully when AI takes over it will be more accountable! 😉

It really was a fabulous few days! I am now (obviously) taking credit for deciding to travel on a shared boat. Our travelling companions were great company and actually it was really nice to share the experience with them – including a private beach dinner for our last supper.

Can’t recommend this trip enough – really special! Staff are incredible – you feel very well looked after – they even provide Imodium when you’re struggling!

For four days we’d had perfect weather – but to keep things real – as we arrive back in the harbour the heavens open! It’s not all sunshine and rainbows.

Before I sign-off a few people have commented on my misbegotten adventures with laptops and hiking shoes etc. It’s too late to change the blog to ‘An Idiot Abroad’ – so I have attempted to moderate my behaviour. The worst I managed on this trip was dropping my sunglasses in a dock – which our guide kindly recovered from the sea floor for me! Progress! There is hope!

With that, Bali beckons. Supposed to be the dry season – looks anything but!

TAFN.