Our trip wouldn’t have felt complete somehow without adding an overnight train into the mix. But as they say, be careful what you wish for!
There are actually a decent number of westerners at Hue station awaiting the train, some going all the way through to Hanoi, so maybe we aren’t completely crazy. Our cabin, is distinctly compact, and I feel very grateful that we will only be using two of the four bunks. By the time our luggage is inside, there is really not very much space. However, there are snacks on the cabinet and we are even offered either a cold beer, or a glass of dubious looking wine.
On the plus side, the shared bathroom is clean and functional, with a sink outside offering a place to brush ones teeth.
On the downside, the mattress is wafer thin and the vibrations are pretty special. Don’t anticipate a great nights sleep…
Yep… I was right. One of the worst nights sleep I can remember. Tiny bed, noise, and vibrations are not conducive to a decent nights kip. In fact, I can only imagine it was like spending a night in Shawshank during an earthquake. Note to self – no more overnight trains!
It’s a three hour drive from Nimh Binh station to Mai Chau, with interesting scenery en-route.
Mai Chau is very picturesque. Our room overlooks the paddy fields, which are a hive of activity. We are there to watch the final preparations for the rice to be sewn. Over the balance of the two days we watch as the fields transform from bare mud to something resembling a rice field. Fun just strolling through the fields and watching the preparations.
With our one full day, we head out for a guided walk up one of the nearby mountains. We are led by a local lady. Very beautiful, if somewhat steep walk. Get to step into one of the traditional stilted houses. Feels slightly intrusive but interesting to see the space where locals live, eat, and sleep.
At the top of the mountain, with a vantage point overlooking the terraces, we are invited to join a local lady for fresh sugarcane. She was born in this very house, and is now 70 years old.
We’ve never eaten sugar cane before. Watch as she strips the cane with a machete, before handing us inch long pieces to chew on. It’s actually very tasty. You are left with thick pulp in your mouth once the sugar has been exhausted through chewing, and I watch as our guide spits it out. Glad she’s there to show us the way!
Both the guide and the lady of the house are keen to have their photos taken with us. Happy to oblige, although I feel somewhat like Gulliver arriving in Lilliput!
Next day we drive 3 hours to Hanoi. Have time for a stroll before a reasonably early night. Next day we are due to head to Bai Tu Long Bay for a two day boat cruise.
It’s another decent length car journey to reach the harbour. Bai Tu Long Bay is the quieter and lesser-known sister to Ha Long Bay. The Latter is notoriously noisy, crowded, and polluted, so we chose a quieter spot. Our boat is a traditional Vietnamese junk, sleeping up to 8 guests.
Turns out that we are to be outnumbered by the French! Two other couples are joining us on our trip, both in their early 70s. All I can say is that I hope I am in that sort of shape at their age. They are very good company, and kindly oblige us by speaking English.
We head out through the beautiful archipelago. Local legend has it that back in antiquity, a great dragon spat out thousands of pearls that became the 1,969 islands and islets.
We are treated to a six course Vietnamese lunch with our new found friends, before stopping at Sun Sot cave, and kayaking around some of the islands. Very nice, relaxing day. Although a further six-course dinner leaves us fit to burst!
Although slightly better than the train, the boat is not the most comfortable place to sleep, and we both wake next morning feeling decidedly groggy! Note to self – no more boats!
We visit a traditional floating village where life has been largely unchanged for a hundred years or more. Children have to go to the mainland for school, consequently, many are taught how to fish rather than anything more academic.
After yet another multi-course meal, we find ourselves winging our way back to Hanoi. Glad that we are not staying on the boat any longer – we’d end us the size of buses!
Visit a traditional water puppet show on our way home. It’s very quaint, but not worth making a special visit to see.
Our final few days in Vietnam are spent pottering around Hanoi and sorting out various aspects of the remainder of our trip. The fact that northern Ethiopia is a no go zone means that we’ve had to juggle the itinerary, which now includes Jordan as a last minute substitute.
Hanoi is an interesting spot. It doesn’t have a plethora of tourists sites, but it is entertaining enough for a couple of days. Particularly enjoy visiting Train Street, where high speed trains literally run through a busy residential area.
We are also asked to help some young students to improve their English. Good fun, and turns out their English is already excellent. Obligatory photos, which again, make me look like some kind of giant. Jenn is particularly pleased that her students look happy and excited, whereas mine look forlorn. What can I say, it’s a gift! 😉
With that, it’s time to say farewell to South-east Asia. Next stop India. Looking forward to it!
Great to seee paddy fields, and that train track. I thik that I have seen that on Facebook? I hope that a fair warning is given for the next train?
The only warning of an approaching train is the movement of the cameras by the tourists! 😉