Having extended our stay in Turangi in the forlorn hope of seeing the mountains clear of cloud, we were only ever going to be able to pay a flying visit to Napier. After a 4 hour drive, we decide to head stright over to Otatara Pa, a historic Maori settlement, dating back as far as the 15th century. Easy to see how they chose the site, with commanding views over the surrounding countryside. I enjoy it almost as much for the birdlife as the cultural significance – we see california quail, kingfisher (conveniently posing on a Maori figure), and baby fan tails. NB: By the way, I know almost nothing about birds – so I have to look up pretty much everything! 😉
Wellington is a further 4.5 hour drive from Napier. The sun shines as we arrive at Island Bay and our home for two nights sits high on the hills overlooking the coast. For anyone that has seen Kill Bill, the steps to the Airbnb are reminiscent of the cruel tutelage of Pai Mei! Glad that we have decided to leave our suitcases and luggage permanently in the car for this part of the trip. The view from the top is well worth the climb though, and I spot a Tui (a much loved native bird) from the balcony.
That evening we meet up with some friends that we met in Fiji (or more specifically met whilst diving with bull sharks 😉). We are lucky to have caught them, as they are flying to the UK the following day. As it is we had a great evening and it was nice to be shown some of the better bars in Wellington.
Wellington itself is very pleasant. One of the things that amused us was watching a guy jump of a makeshift diving board into the harbour. Apparently, this is a Wellington tradition. Not for us. The water looks revolting and although the sun is shining, it’s far from warm.
We walk off our hangover the following day with a hike to the Tawatawa Reserve. Great views from the top, but my God it’s windy. Enough to almost knock you off your feet.
Before we leave Wellington we check out the Te Papa museum, ahead of a 4 hour ferry ride across the Cook Strait. It is a notoriously rough stretch of water and the strong winds make for an interesting journey. Quite enjoy watching as a couple of blokes venture outside. Shortly afterwards a huge wave crashes over the side of the boat. Fun watching people go from genuine concern for their safety to utter delight upon realising that not only are they safe, but also absolutely soaked! Earns them a round of applause, but suspect the rest of the journey was somewhat uncomfortable in their drenched attire.
We are staying very near the ferry port in Picton. Again, our Airbnb is up high and looks straight over the Marlborough Sound.
We were due to go kayaking on our first full day in Marlborough, but it is cancelled owing to the wind. We opt instead for a hike along the Queen Charlotte track. We complete one section of what would otherwise be a four day walk. Beautiful scenery and the appearance of the sun makes for some fabulous colours.
Marlborough is one of New Zealand’s most important wine regions – famous worldwide for the quality of its Sauvignon Blanc. Despite the fact that Jenn is not a fan of the grape, we join a small group tour. We are picked up by our driver for the day, Gavin, and join another couple from the UK, three Swedish ladies on a girls holiday, and two couples from Oz. Our first tasting is at just after 10 in the morning. They start early here!
Over the course of the day we visit five different cellar doors. The wines are excellent, as is the company. One particular guy made us smile, a sixth generation Australian from hardy farming stock (reckon you’ll be able to spot him in the group photo below). As he said to me, ‘we’re plain speaking in Australia, you’ll always know what we think about you, because we’ll just have told you.’
Turns out he’s lucky to be alive having been trampled by one of his bulls many years back. Consequence is that he has 30 odd plates holding his face together. Ouch! He and his wife are clearly made of strong stuff.
After a full day on the juice, we decide a short stroll is in order. Stumble across a flock of royal spoonbills, which as I’m sure you know, are the only one of six species of spoonbill that breeds in New Zealand. 😉 I wanted to see them while we are here – so tops off a great day!
Before heading for our next stop we spend the morning kayaking along the coast. We are treated to a beautiful day and spot several eagle rays. Despite the natural beauty on display, highlight of the trip for me was when Jenn complains to our guides that the rudder on our kayak isn’t working (the kayaks are a little higher tech than we are used to). Our very kind guide highlighted that Jenn hadn’t actually put the rudder in the water! Wally… 😉
Starting to understand why people rave about New Zealand and still have three weeks to go. Until next time…
You seem to be meeting a lot of very interesting people on your travels which must be enhancing the whole experience.
I taught with a guy who came from New Zealand. He hd a house by Cook Straight. I thought what are you doing here living in North London?