It was my idea to sail around French Polynesia, and thus organising our catamaran was one of my two material contributions to our trip. The closer we got to boarding, the more nervous I felt. Eight days is a long time, and our charter was to be shared with eight other passengers, a captain and a hostess. A few key variables would either make or break the trip, namely, sea sickness, the weather, and our sailing companions!
The weather forecast did little to ease my anxiety. Nor did the fact that we were issued with umbrellas when boarding the plane to Tahiti. Fair to say it was pretty wet…
We boarded our catamaran at Uturoa port on Raiatea Island, where we were joined by another English couple and three couples from Italy. We were outnumbered by the Italians, and it became clear pretty quickly that we were to be out dressed! 😉
Our captain, Hinano, (coincidentally, also the name of the local beer) introduced us to our hostess, Mum. Both lovely local ladies and it was immediately clear that we were in good hands and excellent company. Over lunch we walked through the itinerary and were soon under way.
The catamaran was more spacious than we’d anticipated, and the cabin was cunningly designed to make effective use of every available crevice. Plenty of storage, and whilst we wouldn’t be throwing any ballroom dances in our room, it was large enough to be comfortable for a week. So far, so good.
On our first day we sailed to Motu Tautau, arriving just in time for a quick snorkel. The weather was mixed – with strong wind and heavy cloud. As ever though, beautiful fish and clear water despite the weather. Back on board we got to know our travelling companions over dinner and collectively prayed to the weather Gods to bring us fair skies the following day!
Alas, we awoke to cloud and strong winds. The 3.5 hour crossing to Bora Bora was certainly memorable, with lots of sea sickness tablets dispensed! Fortunately, although several passengers felt the effects of the rough water, no one was too badly affected. Jenn loved it and spent most of the morning sat on the top deck – think she fancies herself as a future captain!
As we made our way through the channel, to the famed Bora Bora island, we saw whales breaching. The captain had promised us 50 shades of blue and I think that’s a fair description. The main island itself remained shrouded in low cloud – but the bay was beautiful.
That afternoon we swim with Eagle Rays. Easy to see how they earned their name – smaller than manta rays – they literally look as though they are flying, as they glide through the water. Very Beautiful.
The following day we were taken by dugout canoe to several spots on Bora Bora. This time the weather was very definitely against us and although it was beautiful, we could only imagine how stunning it must be in bright sunlight. We were snorkelling when it started to hammer it down with rain. Turns out that we witnessed the worst rain in 15 years – quite the accolade!
Jenn and I opt out of a trek that afternoon, reasoning that the visibility would be naff and there was a good chance of being rained on. True to form, those plucky few that went, came back drenched. I felt pretty smug, until I was asked to help with the tender, resulting in me getting a good soaking. Karma!
In spite of the weather several of us decide to go for a pre-dinner drink at the Bora Bora Yacht Club. Needless to say that we got soaked getting there! Was worth it to watch one of Italian friends try his first White Russian. He was less than impressed!
The cards are broken out that evening with everyone in pretty good spirits despite the weather! We learn to play Uno.
Next day, with the weather markedly improved we visit a pearl farm. Interesting watching the production process. Pretty invasive if you are one of the unfortunate oysters! Shell is prised open, a small ball made of powdered shell (ironically imported from Japan) is unceremoniously inserted, before the shell is resealed and left to incubate in the South Pacific for around 18 months. Certainly didn’t inspire us to buy pearls!
After another challenging 3 hour crossing, we find ourselves back in Raiatea, the Sacred Island. Whilst visiting a vanilla farm, Jenn manages to get herself stung by a bee – which puts a bit of a dampener on things. However, she is cheered considerably when we visit a sacred, archaeological site where I attempt to play one of the large conch shells. Looks easy enough – but my first few attempts did not result in anything even close to the desired outcome. Provided some amusement for the spectators.
Our guide then insists on the men doing a traditional haka as an offering to the Gods. I can only assume that any God unfortunate enough to witness the debacle that followed would have felt more insulted than gratified. Safe to say that Jenn and the wives of my fellow warriors found the whole thing hilarious. Weird. Pretty sure its supposed to strike fear in the eye of the beholder. 😉
After a thoroughly exhausting afternoon of swimming and snorkelling, we visit a beautiful little beach bar to watch the sunset. Gorgeous spot.
Next day we sail to Huahine. Jenn and some of the others explore part of the island previously owned by Julio Iglesias. The land was subsequently bought by developers who built the first luxury hotel in French Polynesia. Sadly for them, a freak tornado destroyed the entire estate shortly after it opened. No one has had the courage the repeat the feat since.
An interesting cultural tour follows and an opportunity to see blue eyed eels. They are absolutely enormous and attack the proffered tuna with pretty sizable teeth! A few sample shots of the 55% proof local liqueur follows from a local distillery. Beautiful island, and collectively, the one we most favoured.
Our final day is pretty unique – as it should be, given that it is also Jenn’s birthday. In the morning we travel to Robinson Crusoe Island. Even after a month in the South Pacific, the colour of the water and the beauty of the island, is still incredible. Black reef tip sharks loiter at the end of the boat waiting to be fed, the waves wash over the reef, and our catamaran bobs away just shy of the island in a sea of turquoise. Idyllic.
After a stint on the island and some amazing snorkelling just off the beach, it’s back to the boat for todays main event. Two of our honeymooners, have opted to have a Polynesian wedding! We get to play the role of grateful spectators.
Really lovely thing to watch. The couple’s wrists are bound in twine, they are wrapped in a ceremonial blanket, and officially given a Polynesian name. We are subsequently treated to Polynesian dancing and beach barbecue. Lovely way to end the trip together!
As one of our guides commented – ‘if anyone ever tells you that it never rains in Polynesia – they are lying.’ Never a truer phrase uttered. However, despite the temperamental weather – French Polynesia is unquestionably beautiful. Seeing the islands via boat is a great way to get a sense for the archipelago. Despite never having been on a sailing trip before, Jenn and I both loved it. We made some new friends and shared some great experiences. Knew it was a great idea to sail round French Polynesia! 😉
Onwards… next stop the Cook Islands. Plan is to do very little for a week.
Until next time…
The colours of the water are stunning l am not surprised that you never tire of them x
How lovely to meet new friends in such beautiful surroundings. Lots of happy memories there. Wishing I was young again and could start all over.
Pleased that you all seemed to have got on.