Uzbekistan & Tajikistan

Any notion we had that central Asian countries were going to be similar to one another is quickly dismissed upon landing at Tashkent, in Uzbekistan. Feels very different to Kyrgyzstan.

We only really have one full day in the city, and wander around it at our own pace. We get our first taste of the fabulous architecture the country has to offer when we visit Kukeldash Madrasah, before strolling through the many parks before arriving at the Soviet designed Uzbekistan Hotel, and statue of famed leader, Amir Temur.

By then I’d sampled a raspberry and banana (?!) ice-cream, which had melted down the front of my white shorts. The latter looked like a tie-dye experiment gone horribly wrong, with bright pink splodges, pretty special.

If we had, had more time, we are told that the mountains near Tashkent are well worth a visit. Maybe next time.

As it is, we have a date with a high speed train. The heavens open that morning, so we get soaked making the short walk from taxi to station. The weather looks distinctly mixed over the next few days. Nevertheless, the two-hour journey is pretty comfortable and we arrive in Samarkand unscathed.

We have a guide for a full day tour of the city, which proves to be a good decision. It is vast and there’s a lot to see. It’s a national holiday in Uzbekistan to celebrate Eid, so nice to see lots of local families out enjoying a little bit of respite. Travelling to places of interest during public holidays seems to have been a recurring theme this trip! The weather is also perfect, bright blue sky.

We start the day at Gur-i Amar (meaning ‘tomb of the king’ in Persian). Built in 1403, during the latter part of the reign of Amir Temur, a legendary local hero who did much to unite this part of the world, and by all accounts significantly improve prosperity for local people. Of course, the people he conquered would no doubt have a different interpretation of his reign! But, in this country he is a much revered figure and the majority of the sites we visit are directly linked to him and his descendants. Fitting that the first spot is the site of his resting place. Interestingly, he is laid alongside his son and grandson at the feet of his teacher, such was his respect for the latter.

Really stunning. We’ve never seen anything quite like it before. The site has obviously been heavily restored, and there are traces of the original ruins. Think it, and other sites in the area, are giving UNESCO a bit of a headache, given that the local government left to its own devices would so heavily restore the buildings that much of the original history would be lost. We are in two minds about it. Having walked around lots of historical sites in their natural state, it is refreshing to see buildings in something resembling their original splendour.

Next stop is at the Registan Square. Again dating to the early 15th century, the site comprises a mosque and two madrasas (schools to you and I). Beautiful buildings.

Lunch is a good opportunity to talk to our guide a bit more about local culture. Fascinated to learn that arranged marriages are still very common, and seemingly very successful. Islam is by far the dominant religion in the country, and family plays a crucial role. Very common for at least two generations to live in the same house.

Our penultimate stop for the day is at the spectacular mausoleums of Shah-I-Ziner, many of which are dedicated to notable women. Progressive thinking for the early 15^th century.

Finish the day at the Uleg Beg observatory, dating from the 15^th century. Not much to see, but incredible how accurate the star maps produced on this site were – together with calendars that are pretty close to modern standards. By all accounts the best and brightest from across the empire were brought to the region. The results speak for themselves.

Next day we drive to the land border with Tajikistan. Interesting experience, but nothing like as bureaucratic as we had been led to believe. We were safely through within about half an hour.

We meet our driver, Amirkhon and our guide, Humoyun. Immediately clear that we are in great hands. Tajikistan is the second most mountainous country in the world after Bhutan, and the ranges make for an impressive backdrop as we make our way to Sarazm.

The site was only discovered in 1976 after a local farmer found a bronze axe head, but it dates back 5,500 years. Although there is not much left to see, this was an important part of the silk route and the museum houses a raft of interesting finds dating back to the period. The skeleton of a female, known as the queen, is preserved as she was found, wearing two bracelets made from shells that can only be found in the Bay of Bengal. Evocative of a time when travellers from all corners of the known world would meet to barter and exchange exotic goods.           

We are asked by our guide whether we’d like to make either a bathroom stop, use an ATM, or buy a snack. After initially declining, Jenn decides that actually, it’s a long drive so a bathroom would be great. Whilst we’re at it, maybe it would be nice to grab a banana and some bread. Which of course means we need an ATM. Our poor guide!

The bazaar is interesting. We are the only tourists, so the produce is intended for locals. Always fascinated by the butchers shops, that lack refrigeration! The fruit, vegetables, and spices are about as fresh as one could wish for. Was very touched when Jenn asked how much a loaf of local bread was. The local lady insisted on giving it to us for free, ‘a gift for our guests.’ Small gesture, but how many places in the world would that happen? Genuinely touched by a simple act of kindness.

That morning we visit five of the seven lakes. In the foothills of the mountains, the lakes are gorgeous and being off season we have them largely to ourselves. With the weather being kind to us, they are stunning.

Spring in the valleys brings out the fruit blossoms on the slopes and our homestay for the evening is a hive of activity with locals tilling the fields and planting crops. After a very welcome home cooked lunch we hike to the remaining two lakes. The last of which is partially covered in ice.

Our accommodation is basic, but homely (pun intended), with a stove in the room ensuring that we are warm enough through the night. Obviously no wifi, so a few days isolation from the outside world. We are served local food, perhaps not to everyone’s taste, but interesting experience and you could certainly never quibble about the portion sizes!

Next morning we make a brief stop at the mausoleum of Abu-Abdullo Rudaki, the ‘Chaucer of Tajikistan,’ and an important literally figure in this part of the world.

Our next homestay is in the remote village of Artuch. The village is rustic and unspoiled. As we wander round, cows roam the streets, goats are herded through the small roads by children on donkeys, and women wash clothes in the stream alongside coal fires. Electricity in this part of the world is dependent on hydro-power and has been challenging to say the least in recent months. The lack of snowfall is a concern, given that river levels are expected to be below the norm. That said, we have no issues during our stay.

In the evening we watch as our hosts prepare dinner, a popular local dish known as ‘plov.’ Relatively simple to prepare, and they make a special vegetarian version for Jenn. Interesting to spend time in a local kitchen with 8 grandchildren running around! Our host is also the local blacksmith, still one of the most important jobs in the village. We learn that property passes through the male line.

The next day we are due to hike to the Koulikalon Lake. It’s a modest hike in terms of distance, around 14km. The summit however is a touch over 9,000 feet (more than twice the height of Ben Nevis). Small by local standards, but pretty high for those of us not accustomed to altitude.

By now our luck with the weather has come to an abrupt end. It has been raining overnight and is drizzling as we set off. The clouds look somewhat ominous and we even discuss whether it is worth attempting. But fortune favours the brave and all that…

The early part of the hike is pretty uneventful. Beautiful valley, steady rain, an aggressive farm dog, and mountains shrouded in thick cloud.

As we progress to the snow line, the rain becomes heavier, and the temperature drops. The snow on the ground becomes thicker and more constant as we continue. It’s a steep ascent in places, which is fine when the footing is good. As the snow thickens it becomes increasingly challenging.

At various points the snow is at least knee deep, covering the rocks beneath. Humoyun leads the way compacting the snow for us to follow in his footprints. Fine for Jenn, but I am at least 15 kilos heavier, so sink deeper into his tracks.

Jenn suggests that we go back. We know that the final part of the ascent is steep and the rain has turned to sleet. I suggest that we continue on to see what conditions are like further ahead, we are so close it would be a shame to stop now…  

Jenn and I have slightly different approaches to risk assessment. I rely heavily on the advice of local guides. If they tell me it’s safe, I trust them (within reason). If they say it’s not, I don’t argue. Jenn on the other hand trusts her own gut instinct. It makes for interesting debates at times…  

Half an hour on the conditions become pretty epic. The sleet has turned into heavy snow and Jenn is having to be helped through the deep drifts. We reach a corner that is pretty challenging. Humoyun and Jenn make it through and continue on. I slip twice, resulting in light sprains to both of my already numb hands!

With a mere 50 metres to go to the summit, we concede defeat!

The final 50 metres is an almost vertical climb, which would be easy in the summer. In the snow, it would be very tough. Humoyun suggests that maybe it’s ‘a little bit dangerous to continue’. I take this as code for ‘we could continue, but we’re all going to die.’ Obviously, I exaggerate for effect…

So close… 50 metres!

Note: My doctoral thesis is about decision making. Two things are going through my mind at the bottom of the final 50m. Firstly, if you have an accident here, no one is coming to help. You either find a way down or you become a permanent addition to the mountain. Secondly, if something were to happen, given that Jenn had wanted to turn back earlier, I would never hear the end of it…  

There’s nowhere to stop and the snow is getting heavier, so with our frozen tails between our legs we head back down.

As we are about halfway down, the universe decides to send us a sign that it approves of our decision. We hear a crack that sounds like thunder, before watching as a mix of snow and rock cascades down the mountain. A safe distance from us, but a reminder that we are all insignificant in the face of natural forces. You certainly wouldn’t want to be near that avalanche/rock slide.

Our guide looks crestfallen that he wasn’t able to show us the lake.  From our perspective, once we are safely at the bottom, it all feels like a great adventure. Such things always do in hindsight. Really glad that we attempted the climb and even though we didn’t see the lake, it was a very cool hike in the wilds of Tajikistan. Our photos have since been shared with other would be hikers… suspect very few will be attempting the hike until the snow thaws. We are clearly pioneers. 😉

The next day is a far more tame affair. Long drive to Dushanbe (capital city). We stop at Iskanderkul Lake for lunch, where Jenn falls in love with the local puppies. We also walk to see the nearby waterfall. The waterfall itself is hard to see from any given vantage point, but the valley is beautiful.

Before we reach Dushanbe, we stop to wash the car. Apparently, dirty cars are not tolerated in the city, with fines dished out to slovenly offenders. Makes me smile, given that my car back home only gets cleaned when it rains!

When we arrive, we are treated to wifi for the first time in three days. The news that Iran has launched an attack on Israel has blissfully passed us by in the valleys. However, Jordan was due to be our next stop. Given that the Israeli response is unknown, and that the airspace has only just reopened, we decide that a change of itinerary is required. A relief to our parents no doubt!

Jenn pulls out her cloak and exercises her super-powers. She pulls forward Oman, looks to book Mozambique as a substitute, and cancels flights to Jordan. It’s impressive to watch, and I am grateful to be travelling with a true master of her craft!

We start our city tour the next day later than planned given the logistical challenges that Jenn is grappling with (I myself am grappling with Orwell who I have discovered a great appreciation for this trip). Visit several sights in the city and the National Museum.

All too soon we are sat having our final lunch with our incredible guides. Been a really cool few days. Tourism still feels embryonic in this part of the world, and it has been interesting to see villages in their unspoiled state. Suspect in a few years time the country will change dramatically, and tourism will become a lot more mainstream. Although we’ve visited in the offseason, we’ve loved the isolation. We didn’t see the lake, but the memory of that hike will stay with us for a long time.

Given that the ‘stans were not on our original plan, and were a late addition, we feel very glad that we’ve visited. We’ve only scratched the surface, and there is much more to discover here. Not too far from the UK and somewhere that we would happily return in the future. You won’t get lots of creature comforts, but you will get authentic people, incredible culture, stunning scenery, and a largely undiscovered history.

Next stop Oman – all being well. Well done Jenn!