If you’ve read my posts from Indonesia, you may recall that I had a slight incident with some laptops. You may also recall that Jenn was not best pleased.
Although we recovered both items, Jenn has not let me forget my carelessness (I’d like to think I would never labour a point like that). In any event, ever since then, I have been paranoid about my possessions – not wishing to incur Jenn’s wrath for a second time.
Ironic then, that it is Jenn’s turn to lose something. Can you sense my smugness? It seems Jenn’s kindle must have fallen down the back of the sofa at our last Airbnb.
I try hard to pretend to be angry (in the style of Jennifer), but I struggle to hide my inappropriate delight at no longer being the sole liability on the trip! Given that we are about to spend a month on tropical islands in the South Pacific, with very little WIFI, now is not the time to be without a book! Cue urgent visit to the shops to procure a replacement. So careless – tut, tut, tut! 😉
Side note: original Kindle has since been recovered and is being posted to a friend that we are due to meet in Sydney.
Anyhow, misbegotten Kindle adventures aside, we arrive on Efate Island in Vanuatu.
Vanuatu is made up of 83 islands in the South Pacific, and if you’ve not heard of it, then join the club. I hadn’t either. Vanuatu was governed by the British and French from the 1880s. From 1906 it was managed via a joint framework, the New Hebrides Condominium. This lasted until a successful(?) independence vote in 1980. As a consequence of the archipelago’s decentralised past – it is estimated that there are north of 130 indigenous languages spoken on the islands in addition to English, French and Bislama.
Our home for the first few nights is the Havannah. It’s absolutely tipping it down as we arrive, and looking at the forecast it doesn’t look set to improve. Jenn has a terrible habit of looking at the long-range forecast on a daily basis and then telling me over breakfast or dinner. The forecast suggests nothing but rain for the next 10 days. I’m optimistic though – I know how quickly the weather can change on small islands. This is particularly true in the tropics where the trade winds (I always think that sounds terribly exotic) can change the weather rapidly.
The view from our room stretches towards the ocean. It’s easy to imagine that when it’s not blowing a gale and bucketing it down with rain, it would be pretty idyllic. We have to rely on our imagination for the time being.
That evening we watch a fire show at the hotel restaurant. It’s actually very impressive… as is the rain that hammers on our roof all night long.
Fortunately, the weather over the next few days is considerably better than forecast. Warm and sunny. I avoid telling Jenn that I told her so! I don’t dare – she’s still very sensitive after leaving her Kindle behind! 😉 So careless – tut, tut, tut!
As expected, in the sunshine, the hotel is gorgeous. Lots of carved statues, a thatched restaurant, and a beach covered in seashells and coral. The ocean around these islands is known as the Coral Sea and it’s easy to see why. Although the reefs have been damaged by recent cyclones, it is still impressive. Even knee deep in the water one can see sponges alongside resident clownfish.
We visit Port Vila, the capital city, overlooking the ocean. Pretty lively place with several handicraft fairs to visit. One of the downsides of this type of travelling is that our 23-kilo luggage allowance doesn’t permit us to take home souvenirs. Shame, as there is some really interesting stuff. I particularly love the carvings which would nicely adorn my study. However, we have to suffice with a few hand painted pictures. I send mine, alongside a postcard, to my Nan. Will be interesting to see whether they make it. The local waterfront market is very colourful with amazing fruit and veg for sale – all of which look enormous in comparison with the paltry offerings back home.
The following day we decide to take the cultural tour. We’d been advised that it was not for the so-called cruise ship tourists. We quickly understand what they mean. We are picked up at the jetty and taken to Mangas village. This part of the island was home to the legendary Melanesian chief, Roi Mata. The jungle is very dense and wild here. One can imagine early explorers landing in similar spots. Bear in mind that the last reported act of cannibalism on Vanuatu was as recent as 1969.
Our local guide, Coco, explains the history and traditional belief systems. We are shown ancient stones and sacred sites that are still used in ceremonies today.
The locals in Vanuatu are big believers in magic, and in particular, black magic. Coco tells us about some of the things that he has ‘seen with his own eyes’. One particular account involves a fishing line being cast into the forest and returning a live fish. Although he doesn’t use the phrase, astral projection, he describes equivalent experiences. He is clearly in awe of magic users and more than a little scared of its power. Standing in the jungle in the middle of nowhere, his earnest accounts hit home harder than they otherwise might. Somewhat unnerving!
We are shown Fels Cave on the island of Lelepa before touring the local village. Over a coffee, Coco explains that a lot of the villagers head to Australia. As seasonal workers picking fruit, they can earn enough money in just 9 months to build a brick house when they return. The same feat would take 80 years via local employment!
It’s an interesting day out. Jenn suggests that the village is a cross between those she’s seen in the Caribbean and Uganda. The local school is rustic. Seemingly education is only funded until the age of about 9 or 10. Post that the fees are relatively hefty – one of the unfortunate consequences of the 1980 independence vote.
On our final evening on Efate, we take a sunset boat ride. The cloud is too thick to present much of a display, but we share the trip, and a couple of beers, with two travel agents. Curious about our trip, Jenn explains where we’ve been and where we’re headed next. They seem impressed. Not unexpectedly Jenn’s homework is spot on, and they approve of the choices she’s made. If only she could remember to pack her Kindle. So careless – tut, tut, tut! 😉
We are subsequently treated to a dolphin show. A pod of about 20 dolphin appear in the bow wave of our boat. Really beautiful and something that we have both always wanted to see. The speed of them is amazing and they play for a good ten minutes. We even see a calf joining in the fun and frolics. Pretty special way of spending an evening – local beer, the South Pacific, and a pod of dolphins to provide entertainment!
The following day finds us at Bauerfield airport. Airports don’t get much more basic than this, and Air Vanuatu has a bit of a reputation. Having procured a bottle of water from the local café (I decide not to tell Jenn that there is raw, uncovered, chicken in the drinks section of the fridge) we settle down to wait for our flight. Sure enough, it’s late. No announcements, no electronic screens, it just arrives when it arrives!
With that it’s off to our second stop in Vanuatu, Espiritu Santo. Let’s hope Jenn has packed everything this time. So careless – tut, tut, tut! 😉
Jenn obviously takes after her father-in-law who also is the oracle when it comes to short and long range weather forecasts . Although sad to say they are usually wrong and that has nothing to do with the trade winds!
David can you stop hiding Jenn’s stuff down the back of the sofa please 😆